So our adventure began Saturday. After Ronita arrived we decided to walk over to Schwartz. It is a fun chaotic diner, a "montreal landmark" known for their delicious smoked meat. And that really is the best dish. Most everyone at the cafeteria-style table-of-six seating gets the smoked meat sandwich with fries and a pickle to share. Add a local cherry cola and the meal is complete.
After chilling for a bit to make sure we didn't burst from that big good sandwich, we headed out to a pub to catch the Habs-Leafs game. Of course the Habs won, but it was fun watching the crazy fans and an experience to watch the game in French.
Sunday we got up early and went to Atwater market which featured a long row of delicious meat vendors and a delicious little boulangerie. Here we ate the quintessentially French dish for lunch: croque monsieur (plus a Fois Gras pate). Both of these were extrodinarily delicious and a bargain at their price. Then of course, we had to get dessert, and it was difficult choosing among the many drool-inducing options. But alas we did and used the metro ride back to the apartment to digest lunch so we could truly savour our dessert once we got back.
Later that night was--know I know I should've done this sooner--but it was my first poutine. In the 3 months prior I had failed to try the dish Quebec is famous for. Poutine is one of those dishes (as described by Anthony Bourdain) that sounds and looks disgusting but is actually outrageously good.
And it is exactly as Bourdain described (even went to where he did!)
Poutine: french fries with gravy and cheese curds. |
Monday morning we went for one of the other foods montreal is famous for: bagels. Supposedly they rival NYC for the best bagels, and though I've never had a NY bagel and really am not much of a bagel connoisseur, these bagels were good. We went to the two stores that are in competition for the best bagel in Montreal (and are also within walking distance of each other): St. Viateur and Fairmont. Personally I liked Fairmont more, but both were very good.
For dinner that night we stopped at this cute small crepe shop a block from my apartment. The guy there is a sweet older gentleman who makes the crepes right in front of you. Mine was an apple-cheese crepe with cinnamon :)
Later that night we went to a little dessert cafe (very cute) called Juliet et Chocolate and basically slipped into chocolate comas. These were induced be such delicious extravagance as The Peanut (hot chocolate with peanut butter--it basically tasted like 12 melted reeses mixed together, and was incredibly incredibly rich) and a brownie of which I don't remember the name, but it was: Chocolate cake and white chocolate cake mixed into brownie batter, then the brownie topped with caramel. Oooooh, it was good.
Pre-eat
Death by chocolate or simply chocolate induced coma?
Tuesday we tried yet another Quebec treat: Beaver tail. No, not an actual beaver tail, it's a fried piece of dough topped with various toppings (maple syrup with some chocolate was my favorite), tastes a bit like funnel cake, only sweeter.
Then tuesday night, Ronita's last night in Montreal we went out to a nice restaurant endorsed by Anthony Bourdain: Au Pied du Cochon (The Pig's Foot). This restaurant is not at all vegetarian friendly, to put it mildly.
We started off with some wine. Normally I don't like wine, but the one the server recommended was a delicious sweet, sweet, sweet white wine. I loved it. Then came the appetizers. Ronita got the Bison's tongue (which was very good and tender, tastes kind of like steak). I got the tomato tartlet which was basically a delux gormet pizza with horseradish. It was delicious and original, I'd never had anything quite like it.
Next course, foie gras. Ronita got the Fois Gras Poutine (see above), while I got the Foie Gras Tartlet: pastry, vinegar, mashed potatoes and the foie gras. Although Foie Gras has not become one of my favorite meats, the mashed potatoes made the dish divine. It seems like an odd combination, but it worked perfectly together and the flavors melded and sparked. Obviously I will never be a food critique so suffice it to say it was delicious.
This too induced "wow, so good, but too much" thinking (though not as epically as Juliet did)
Of course, we had to get dessert. I got apple crumble (melt-in-your-mouth apple crumble topped with delicious vanilla bean ice cream). Ronita got maple bread pudding (which I found too sweet). But, we both finished our entire meal....then were very happy for the nice long walk back to the metro.
(Ronita's Maple-bread-pudding bowl, after)
Then yesterday we went to a gourmet sandwich shop started by the owners of Toque! (perhaps the most well known up-scale restaurant in Montreal). And their sandwiches were divine. The combinations were delicious and original, but more than that the ingredients were fresh. That and one more stop at the bakery for pain au chocolat and an eclaire was a perfect end to our gastronomic extravaganza.